Friday, August 16, 2013

Mt. St. Helen's Summit


Our target from earlier in the summer

I’ve been wanting to climb a cascade volcano for ever since I was a little kid so when Kerrie’s uncle told me he was getting some permits I jumped on the opportunity to tag along. In the end, he wasn’t able to make it work so I enlisted Andrew, my father and his friend, Wes to join.

I was a little hesitant on tackling this challenge so close to my race, but I figured it wouldn’t be too bad and that I would have plenty of time to recover if things beat me up more than I expected. Originally, we had planned to camp in the area that weekend, but some slight knee issues for myself and some training requirements for Andrew, resulted in a dawn departure for the mountain.

We picked up our permits around 6a and were climbing my 6:45a. My knee didn’t bother me too much so it was nice being out and about with a good crew of guys. Soon we were above tree line, scouting out the scrambling that was to come. From this point on, it was 2ish miles of scrambling in around 2,000+ feet of elevation.






We slowly picked our way across the jagged pumice, stopping everyone and awhile to soak in the views. Eventually, we get our first snow patch were Wed opted to kick steps, while the rest of us continued to climb over the rocks.




Cresting the next ridge, the weather station and summit came into view. Our target was in sight. We could see a handful of hikers glazing over the edge of the crater rim. It was nearly a three quarters of mile and 700ft in gain to the top. Andrew and I took off on the sandy rocky path, while the dad’s brought up the rear. As we progressed, our trail runner increasingly being filled with ash and sand, but we cared not, as there would be plenty of time to shovel out the sand at the top.




Before we knew it, we crossed the end of the path and peered into the crater of the volcano. Before us spread a view consisting of the blast zone, Johnson Ridge Observatory, Mt. Rainier, Coldwater Peak, Spirit Lake and the Mt. Margaret Backcountry. To right stood Mt. Adams, while we could barely make out the silhouette of Mt. Hood behind us.




Soon the Dads joined us and we took the required summit photos. Pics or it didn’t happen! We sat down to rest and soak in the view, while feasting on gels, PBJs, trail mix and water. I emptied my shoes, doned some mini gaiters and prepared my quads for the descent.


Adams in the background
Keeping warm


Luckily for us, the stumble down wasn’t as bad as I had expected because the sandy and ash cushioned the impact of our repeated steps. We also took turns attempting to feet glissade down the snow patches. Some were more successful than others. Eventually, we rejoined the actual trail, where we began pushing the tempo because my father notified us that there were cold beers waiting in the car.





Upon arrival back at the car, we popped the tops of some local brews and toasted our success. It took us 6 hours to get up and down, plus a 40 min lunch on the top. I am super happy to have accomplished my first Cascade volcano with my close friend and father. Next up on the check list is Adams or Hood, but I’ll have to wait till next spring to tackle the next one.

Stopped at Breakside on the way home for a brew
UNT

Bryan

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Coldwater Lake Loop, MSH





It had been years since I had travelled up to the Johnson Ridge Observatory or the Coldwater Lake area. Last year, I spent some time up towards Ape Canyon volunteering at the Volcanic 50k and was amazed by the quality of trail and beautiful scenery. The following winter, I spent some time pouring over maps of the area trying to determine where some good training runs would be and waiting for the snow to melt.
 
My route took me down the the lake, around to the backside, then up around the peaks on the right


The opportunity finally presented itself a couple weeks ago so I made the 2 hour trip North to check out the Coldwater Lake area of the National Volcanic Monument. The weather was supposed to be hot, and while it was over 90 degrees in Portland, it probably only hit 75ish in the mountains. Despite that, it still seems very hot and most of the run was exposed with little tree cover.
 



Mt. Margaret Backcountry
 
Old tractor up ended by the volcano.
I got the the top of this trail and ran into 12 mountain bikers. At first I thought that they were poaching trail, then I realized that they were doing trail work. I stopped and talked to one of the guys and he told me that they were a group from Castle Rock and had made a deal with the Forest Service that if they maintained the trails then they could have access to those areas. While they can't make the loop all the way around to the Observatory due to sensitive areas, they have already cleared path around the lake and up and beyond tractor junction. I'll have to remember this so I can come back and ride it. The views are insane and the downhill looks like lots of fun.
Coming up to the pass
My proposed route would follow Coldwater Lake trail from the old visitor center then climb up and around to the Coldwater Peak Pass and St. Helen’s Lake. I had the goal of trying to summit Coldwater Peak, but some minor snow fields, the fact that I was by myself and the fact that I couldn’t exactly determine the correct route, pushed me towards the more attainable goal nearby. From there I wound by way down to Johnson Ridge then down towards the Hummocks and back to the old visitor center.
   
The road to Johnson Ridge. I came from over the second ridge



St. Helens Lake pano


Tough Trail
Famous Rock Arch
MSH had a hat on for most of the day
Looking back the way I had came
Johnson Ridge is on top of that hill in the middle
Trail on the left of the ridge face
Hordes of people
Other than the hordes of people around the visitor center, there were only a few people on the trails since made it pretty nice. I would have to say that this was one of the most enjoyable runs that I’ve ever done. Pretty tough, but very beautiful. After looking over towards the Mt. Margaret Backcountry, it confirmed the fact that I would love to run the loop around St. Helen’s Lake through that wilderness area. I would also love to run around MSH via the Loowit Trail this fall if my body holds up. As of now, I have a permit to climb MSH the first weekend in August so I am looking forward to that opportunity.
 

After the Observatory, the wildflowers exploded. Lupine and Indian Paintbrush






In total, I ran 24 miles in 4:46:29 and covered 5,217ft in elevation gain. Not a bad training run considering all the time spent taking pictures.

UNT
Bryan